The Humpbacked Island of Monemvasia

On the 5th August, we set sail from Kariprissa to cover the 32 nautical miles in a nice healthy north west 4, running downwind under our Genoa only until the wind petered out for a bit and came back with a vengeance just as we approached and rounded the island of Monemvasia.

Often likened to a mini Gibraltar, Monemvasia Island is actually connected to the Peloponnesos by a causeway, with its stone houses entirely carved on the backside of this impressive rock back in Medieval times. We caught a glimpse as we sailed past heading to the tiny marina at its foot, hoping for a space as the anchorage didn’t look too comfortable.

Monemvasia

And we were in luck! There was quite a bit of space so we negotiated our way around the dredger at the entrance, chose our slot, dropped our pick and tied up nicely only to have our neighbour say we were across his anchor chain… hmmm we were dead straight so couldn’t really understand it until he explained someone had left in the morning and dragged his anchor and chain sideways! Perhaps it would have been sensible for him to have repositioned earlier, but no! We then had a bit off a juggle entailing us picking up our anchor again, mooch around this tiny harbour while he and a few other chaps moved his stern lines, (and the boat of course), along the quay and tighten up his anchor. We could then re-anchor and come back in! Time to chill now and explore!

That afternoon we wandered around the new town which sat on the mainland, just opposite the rock, in search of orange cake no less, David was having serious withdrawal symptoms by now!

The first night we ate on board and turned in early so we would be refreshed in the morning for the walk up the rock and into the old town with its paved streets that was like a trip back in time. It was full of elegant stone mansions, now converted into boutique hotels and the Byzantine churches of Agia Sofia and Christ Elkomenos. we could help but feel sorry for the poor porters having to wheel carts up the stone alleyways full of provisions for the bars and restaurants and luggage from the hotel guests, old men doing the hard graft in the heat instead of donkeys, very PC!

The walk up with its view across to the new town was stunning, and we got to see the town’s old cemetery and the only “beach” available.

The Old Town Inside the Castle Walls

The sea view from the top of the Castle was breathtaking.

All in all, well worth the walk! But we were in need of some refreshment, fresh OJ and lemon Juice, perfect!

We then returned to the boat to watch with interest the dredger at work, piling what felt like just a few metres from our bow, thankfully it was a little further away than that!

We also got back just in time to witness the mayhem caused by an Italian boat that was moored next to us, which was leaving. It was gusting in the marina at the time and so whilst it was necessary to exit a little quickly, it didn’t need to be full pelt which this skipper did. It looked as if he had forgotten his anchor was still down and started to drive rapidly toward the marina entrance, and yep you guessed it, collecting a number of other boats anchors/chains along the way. he got in a right mess, probably not helped by all the other yachts gesticulating at him and calling him all the names under the sun!

As a result his own anchor, when he tried to pick it up, collected to other anchors, gratefully not ours, and a load of morning lines and all attempts to free it themselves failed, to the point that one of the crew. fell in the water. So, as our dinghy was in the water, David went to his rescue…. but even then together it took a good 10 minutes to free them, even the turtles popped their heads up in desperation!

Finally, all free, it was then the turn of the next yacht along for him to try to leave. Despite doing it in a much more controlled manner, he still picked up the same mooring lines and another anchor, again not ours! No doubt it wasn’t his fault but caused by the mess beforehand, and he and his wife were much more adept at freeing themselves, so David didn’t have to go to the rescue again!

Finally peace resumed, we showered, changed and set off for a wonderful Italian on the waterfront, knowing we were going to be on anchor again for the next few nights. And it was the best Italian we have had in a very long time, accompanied by Italian wine and a view of the rock, as the sun went down, fantastic!

So having spent 2 nights in this picturesque town, we set off again heading to the beautiful island of Elafonisos and its amazing clear turquoise waters!

7th August 2022