Our last Stop in 2018, Istanbul.
So, on the 17th September, with somewhat heavy hearts as we have had such an amazing summer, we left Seaclusion all tucked up and safe in her winter home and headed to Bodrum airport to catch our flight to Istanbul.
All went without a hitch, and with the benefit of a window seat and a pilot who flew up the coast, then along the entire Sea of Marmara, to the Bosphorus Strait that connects the Aegean Sea to the Black Sea, separating Turkey’s Asian and European side of its Capital, Istanbul, we got to see the whole city from the sky!
We landed early evening and were instantly grateful for our jackets, Istanbul being some 250 miles north of Bodrum, it was decidedly colder than what we were now accustomed to!. After checking into the Intercontinental hotel on the European side, a bite to eat and usual glass or 2 of wine, we had an earlyish night, knowing what lay ahead of us the following day.
The following day we ventured across the Golden Horn to reach the historical centre, “Sultanahmet” where the Haghia Sophia, Blue Mosque and the Basilica Cistern can be found. I will let the photos do most of the talking!
The Busy Riverside!
Leaving the river behind us, the first place we came to was the Spice Market, full of wonderful aromas!
We then followed the road towards the Mosques, taking in the wonderful buildings, street traders and general atmosphere.
After fending off a number of helpful chaps, who we soon learned were trying to get us to come to their carpet shop, we came across the Basilica Cistern, a vast underground water system which was constructed in the 6th Century during the most prosperous period of the East Roman Empire, principally to service the needs of the Great Palace. It is 70m in width & 140m in length, with columns arranged in 12 rows of 28 columns, 9m high. The water reserved in the cistern was transported from the Belgrad Forest, some 19km away from the city. And yes, before you ask, it was where the follow on to the Da Vinci Code, Inferno was filmed. Please excuse the quality of the photos, but without a tripod, I really couldn’t do it justice!
From there we wandered across to the Haghia Sophia Mosque and the Blue Mosque, built right opposite each other, just in time for their competing call to prayer, if only I could upload the sound file of it!
The Haghia Sophia, the “Church of Holy Wisdom” is among the World’s greatest architectural achievements, More than 1400 years old, it stands as a testament to the sophistication of the 6th century Bysantine Capital. The vast edifice was built over 2 churches, and was not converted to a mosque until the 15th Century, by the Ottomans who added the minarets, tombs and fountain. To help support the structure’s great weight, the exterior has been buttressed on numerous occasions, hence its rather odd shape nowadays. It is however no longer a mosque, having been converted into a museum, but notwithstanding you still cant help but be impressed.
The next 2 photos were taken standing equidistant between the Haghia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, hoping to show you just how close they were. You can ask why were they built so close? If the buildings were people, historical figures even, they would be eyeing each other up with an acceptance of contemporary diplomacy but with memories of a violent past. The construction of the Blue Mosque was ordered by the young sultan, Ahmet Ist, who, at the age of just 19, decided he wanted a building more impressive than the Haghia Sophia, a building to over dominante it, and in doing so, offended many of the muslim leaders, its 6 minarets being too closely aligned to Mecca!.
Sadly my photos of its interior are limited because most of this beautiful mosque was under renovation, the interior of the domes all hidden from view.
Immediately behind these two amazing structures, life continues as normal, with lots of street ventures, quirky cafes and baklava shops all the way to the Grand Bazaar…
The Suleymaniye Mosque
The Grand Bazaar – Trade has always been important in a city that straddles the continents of Asia & Europe and it all seems to come together in the warren of streets surrounding and in the labyrinth that is the Grand Bazaar. Despite its hectic nature, it is actually very organised, if you know your way around, with different areas selling gold, trinkets, leather goods, clothing, household wares, baklava, Turkish delight and not forgetting rugs and carpets, although you can’t help but feel the pressure from within, all the traders vying for your attention, not wanting you to leave without stripping you of all your worldly goods!
It was with some relief we managed to find our way out, a little bit poorer having bought far more Turkish delight than intended, to jump on a tram and then a tube, to make our way back to Taksim Square and our hotel.
Taksim Square with a new huge mosque in the making!
Our view from out hotel room, Istanbul at sunset!
That night, we jumped in a taxi to got to a restaurant recommended by our friend, Osman, the Sunset Bar & Grill, where, aside from being a little cold, helped by a number of throws, we had a wonderful meal, with stunning views over the city and the Bridge.
Day 2 saw us head back over the Golden Horn to Seraglio Point and Topkapi Palace, its treasury being the home of the Spoonmaker’s Diamond, an 86-carat pear shaped diamond, which again due to renovations, we sadly didn’t get to see. The Palace itself with its various quarters was still an interesting find.
We then made our way back down to the river, gaining snippets of what everyday life is like in Istanbul and headed back to Taksim Square and Istaklal Caddesi.
Crossing the Golden Horn!
Istiklal Caddesi, the pedestrianised street once known as the Grande Rue de Pera, lined with 19th century apartment blocks and European Embassy buildings whose grandiose gates and facades belie their use as mere consulates since Ankara became the Turkish capital in 1923. It is now a bustling street full of shops, trendy bars and tiny arcades, baklava houses, juice stands, street singers and a wonderful old tram running its length.
Juicing Galore!
Well in Italy, the Police had Lamborgini’s and Ferraris, here in Turkey we have these!!!
Exhausted, we returned to our Hotel for some much needed food, wine and recuperation.
The View from our Hotel Bar!
Our final day saw us on our feet again, this time a bit closer to home, visiting the Dolmabache Palace, on the shores of the Bosphorus. The Palace was ordered by the Empire’s 31st Sultan, Abdülmecid I, and built between the years 1843 and 1856, primarily because he was bored with the Topkapı Palace which lacked in contemporary style, luxury, and comfort, as compared to the palaces of the European monarchs! The construction cost five million Ottoman gold lira, or 35 tonnes of gold, the equivalent of $1.5 billion in today’s values. This sum corresponded to approximately a quarter of the yearly tax revenue, but was actually financed by a massive issue of paper money, as well as by foreign loans, placing an enormous burden on the state purse and ultimately contributed to the deteriorating financial situation of the Ottoman Empire, which eventually defaulted on its public debt in October 1875, with the subsequent establishment in 1881 of financial control over the “sick man of Europe” by the European powers.
However from our touristy perspective, it was a wonder to behold. Sadly no photos were permitted of its interior, so you will just have to take our word for it!
From there, we decided to take a sunset cruise up the Bosporus, catching the sights on both sides of the river.
The following day we bid our farewells at the crack of dawn, heading off to catch our flight home via the UK, for a few days of catching up with family & friends. Sadly we never got to explore the Asian side of Istanbul, but given Turkey is now Seaclusion’s home, no doubt we will return to explore that area with anticipation.
This brings our adventures this Summer to a close, thank you for sharing our blogs with us, we hope you have enjoyed them, and we will be back in the Spring of next year for our next chapter on Turkey!
