Our last stop in the Cyclades, Santorini!

On the  12th July, we left Iraklia on a nice beam reach in a Westerlie Force 4, racing along at 7 knots for the 46 mile crossing to Santorini, and on reaching the northern tip, we put our sails away to motor around the crater taking in the sites.

By way of a little history,  the current caldera was formed about 3600 years BC during the Minoan eruption. Palea Kameni and Nea Kameni , 2 tiny islands that make up the archipelago with Santorini were formed as a result of multiple, initially submarine eruptions at the center of the caldera. Although dormant, Santorini is an active volcano.

There are 2 main towns on Santoriini itself, Thira & Oia, both built on top and down the cliffs, full of character, bars, restaurants, shop and tiny houses. I will let the pictures do the talking but firstly I must apologise for the number, it has been really hard to whittle them down!

The Archipelago by Sea.

Having spent a couple of hours taking in the sights, we motored  around to the south side to take shelter from the northerlie winds over the night. Having first tried to drop our anchor at a place called Black Beach, only to realise that the bottom was boulder strewn, all waiting to snag our anchor or chain, we bugged out and went further along the coast, dropping our pick in a small bay with nothing but a couple of tavernas and a church.

The following morning we motored around to the only safe place to leave the boat, Vlichada “Marina”, a place prone to dramatic silting over the winter but that we have been told was being busily dredged, hoping they had gone down enough to cope with our 2 meter draught!. It was all quiet when we arrived at 11.30, the marina seemingly deserted, but we were directed to raft up 3 deep on the mole rather than taking one of the available spots inside. We had 10 cms of water beneath our keel! Later that day we soon realised why!

With a couple of days to spare before Dave and Lynne were due to join us for a couple of days, we jumped on the bus to Thira, seemingly only 15 miles away, but 2 hours later we arrived for a wander and photographic session!. We also stayed to watch the beautiful sunset over a bottle of white vino, before grabbing a gyros (Not wanting to pay over  £45 per head for dinner, being the standard rate there!)

Thira

The following day, we once again undertook the bus journey, this time changing at the mad bus terminal to grab another to Oia, where we spent the afternoon exploring, before making our way back to the boat, for dinner in a local taverna on the hill above it. Trust me, eating on board was not an option.

Oia

The following morning, Lynne & Dave joined us on board, and I have to say God was smiling on them. Having had Force 5+ winds for what seems like weeks,we set sail in a lovely Force 3/4 along the south coast and then tacked up through the crater so they could take in the sites, like we had, stopping for lunch off Nea Kameni, where we were lucky enough to find an available buoy. Kameni is reported to have dog sized rats inhabiting it that are not too shy when it comes to yachts. We set sail again, avoiding a cruise liner and going as close to the port of Thira and Oia as we could before turning southwards and heading over to Thirassa, again to pick up a buoy, the waters being 60 metres + deep, right up to 5 meters from the shoreline. We had hoped to dinghy over to one of the many and busy tavernas, and indeed the boys went off on a looksee to find us a table, only to be told that they were lunchtime places and all the kitchens shut at 8pm. Fortunately we did have some food on board so we spent a fabulous evening nattering over a bottle of wine, or 2,  or perhaps it was 3!

The Gods was shining on us again the following morning, as even though the winds were gusting a Force 5, we had a fabulous downwind sail under the genoa only, to drop our anchor in a bay on the south coast, and pop over to one of the tavernas for lunch. all was going swimmingly, with us all in the dinghy, when the engine failed big time. Martyr that he is, David grabbed the oars and started rowing against the wind, bless him. We arrived safely and had a fabulous lunch looking out across the bay. David was not looking forward to the row back, but took some comfort that he would be with the wind this time, Sadly not, 10 minutes before leaving it changed direction. The blisters on his hands said it all.

We then raced back to Vlichada having been told to get there for 3pm, as Dave needed to get to his dialysis treatment at 4pm, to find ourselves in the heart of the madness with 48 catamarans piling in and out of the marina in readiness for their afternoon trips, not so calm this time and we had no choice but to bug out and pick up a buoy just outside and wait it out. Fortunately for us, there was another boat there and they very kindly offered to take Dave & Lynne to shore in their fully functioning dinghy, so we rapidly said our goodbyes, and then waited for the madness to die down before venturing in ourselves with Seaclusion, having told the harbour master we intended on leaving at 8 the following morning, so could he put us on the outside of a raft so we did not need to disturb anyone, which he duly did, or so we thought!

We had hoped to meet up with the guys later that evening, but despite all our best endeavours could not get a taxi, bus or lift over to where they were staying, so had a rather subdued dinner for 2 in a local taverna, only to watch 3 fishing boats and a 50ft catamaran totally box us in!

The following morning, having woken the necessary skippers up, so we could get out, we bid our goodbyes to Santorini & the Cyclades, heading for our first stop in the Dodecanese Islands, Astipalaia, some 50 miles east.