The Southern tip and West Coast of Zakynthos to Argostoli the Capital of Cephalonia and back up to Levkas.
After Tina & Martyn left ( 13th June) we discovered we had a bit of a battery charging issue and whilst we waited for the electrician (it seems there was only one on the island) to become free, we decided to explore some more of the island, overland.
We drove south in search of nesting turtles in Lagunas Bay, but all we found were lots of human bodies craving a suntan and a strip of dodgy looking bars, so we drove off to Keri Bay, a cute little town for a quick coffee stop before heading further on…
Keri Beach
and finally stopping for lunch on a cliff edge restaurant with absolutely stunning views over the west coast, the side of the island we didn’t think we would sail up due to the prevailing north westerly winds.
From there, we ventured inland for a bit, taking some pics along the way … here’s somewhere in the middle of the Island where we purchased some fab homeland olive oil and white wine in an attractive plastic bottle, still quite quoffable out of the fridge!
Then then we made our way over to Shipwreck Bay by land, risking life and limb to get the same picture as the infamous greek postcard. can you tell?
We then returned to Zakynthos on the hunt for the amphitheatre, which was sadly in a major state of disrepair and no longer in use, still the views from it across the town were great.
Evening Lights across the Harbour at Port Zakynthos
Overall, it was a great day out,made better when we got back to the boat and were told the electrician could come to see us first thing in the morning, which he duly did, and for once, it was just a fuse issue that was stopping the battery for the bow thruster being charged properly, which meant we were actually able to leave later that day. Our intention was to make our way up to Argostoli the capital of Cephalonia and because the weather forecast for the next few days showed slight winds we decided to make our way up the west coast and view the stunning scenery from the water. We stopped, still in hope of seeing some turtles off Keri Beach, but alas no, but there was a bar for David to zip into shore on the dinghy to watch his ever fateful football team get into the Euros knock out stages.
We then proceeded northwards, with the wind right up our bottom but the swell on our beam, making headway very painful indeed. we had planned to stop in a place called Ormos Vroma, said to be spectacular (and perhaps without a swell rolling in, I would have agreed)… half way up the coast but on arrival we saw that the picture in the pilot book had clearly been taken with a wide angle lens of some description, as it was very small, but too deep in the middle to anchor and the shoreline lined with fishing vessels. Not an option, so sadly we continued on our way, passing Shipwreck Bay for yet another view, round the tip to pick up a buoy with Costas at AY Nik again. Too tired to attend the Greek night his restaurant was hosting that night, we decided to eat on board and crash early, all to the sounds of traditional Greek music echoing across the bay and plates shattering on the floor. It was truly a proper Greek night and one that perhaps we should have found the energy for!
The following day we departed from Zakynthos once and for all and headed to Argostli. For the most part it was a lovely genteel sail . Unfortunately our high hopes for Argostli, described in our pilot guide as a town that has, in recent years,” metamorphosed into something that could almost be called chic, with a pedestrianised main street lined with boutiques and cafes”, were not met, as the place looked like it needed some TLC for a number of years. We did however find a safe place to anchor up to the quay, thankfully as the genteel winds didnt last and we watched with sympathy the few poor boats who had decided to stay on anchor swing and rock like no bodies business.
Argostoli, Capital of Cephalonia
The following morning we finally got to see some turtles, not the teenage mutant ninja variety, although I thought the first one pictured did look a bit mean and tough !
We then left eastwards again to go along the south coast of Cephalonia and then turn north aiming to get to Eufimia, just north of Sami, a place we missed when we had Tina and Martyn with us. 20 miles to go the nice southerly winds that had accompanied us for a few days turned to North westerlies, all forecasted at force 4, but soon rose to a force 6 gusting 7 and sometimes touching an 8, on the nose. Tacking with reefed sails became the name of the game for the next few hours until shattered and not making much headway, we and another boat just behind us, gave into the elements, turned on the engine and slammed our way for 5 miles and into the harbour for safe refuge. We did however love Eufimia and it was well worth the effort.
Eufimia
From Eufimai we turned due east to go round the bottom of Ithaca once again, this time to stop in its capital, Port Vathy where we stayed on anchor in the bay for a couple of nights,taking the dinghy in to explore.
Port Vathy, Ithaca
From Vathy our plan was to head northwards back to Levkas, via a little looksee at Kioni
but decided to stop for the afternoon and night on anchor in the lovely bay just to the east of the northern tip of Ithaca, where we had lunch with Emma, Lawrence and family a couple of weeks previously.
Beautiful setting, turquoise water begging for a swim in water temperature of 29 degrees and afterwards we finally found the time to chill and start a book…. that was until the wind started to gust off the hills, swinging us around the anchor which was thankfully well dug in, so we weren’t going anywhere we didn’t want to.The only scary thing was when a beautiful 60 foot Oyster decided to sail in between us and a small island we were using for shelter, in a gap a little too small for our liking, to anchor further into the bay. Hydraulic winches and electrical sails clearly made it an easy job for the skipper but we weren’t to know that at the time!. Finally the winds dropped with the sun and we had a wonderful evening on anchor and a peaceful night.
We then went north across the channel to Sivota on Levkas Island, where we spent a couple of days, doing some chores, yes we still have to do laundry and wash the boat outside and in, which proved to be a thankless task as the heavens opened not long afterwards, but there was a sliver lining, it was a busy day for sport and the Yacht Club Bar right next to our pontoon, showed England beating Australia in the rugby to take the series 3-0, then there was more euro 2016 football, then the climax of watching Anthony Joshua hold his heavyweight title belt, and all this time we met some other English people who had also decided that watching all this was thirsty work, so it is was rude not to join in, the bar owner also chipped in with rounds of shots, some of which will not be repeated, but it was a good day / night that saw us crawling back to our yacht at about 3AM !
Sivota, Levkas
The following day we set sail in a lovely Force 4 on our beam around the bottom of Meganisi and up its east coast, back to Vathy to pick up our TV we had left there to be repaired and get the electrical connection to our much missed outside table lamp fixed, oh and also getting an Apple TV box, only to find out that we couldn’t watch sky programmes that were downloaded onto our Ipad on our TV, (courtesy of Sky’s licensing restrictions!!) but never mind. . 2 days safely tucked in as the winds picked up and died down, we actually found the time to write some of this blog and catch up on movingweather work! We then left and head northwards, this time under engine with absolutely no wind, back to Lefkada town on Levkas to pick up a service kit for our lovely electric toilet which had also decided to give up on us and purchase a wireless remote control for our anchor windlass to give us half a chance of dropping our pick and tying up to the rocks, when there is only 2 of us on board!
Due to the fact, that the next week and a half has been a little tedious with us having lots of work done or being done, and that fact that we have already mentioned most of the places we have stopped at previously, I think it best if we simply precis what we have been up to, otherwise I can see you all falling asleep, so;
30th June – back to Vlikho Bay on Levkas, where we had another lesson, this time on long line anchor mooring, where you drop your anchor and then tie your stern t the shore via a long line, something we had tried before but not been that successful at, being only 2 of us board. However now, adorned with the long line, a bucket and a fender, we can do it safely and without screaming at each other!! We spent the night in what is called Tranquil Bay, although clearly itisn’t all the time!
1st July, we returned to Vathy on Meganissi for a part we had ordered off the internet, evidently our TV does not show MPEG4 programmes which Greek TV requires, so this decoder fixes this problem.
2nd July, we went off to explore the 3 FINGERS ( as they are known) of North Meganissi, – Not quite as nice as everybody raves about, probably due to the fact that a lot of yachts go there so it is very busy and not so quiet. The sunset and dawn was gorgeous though.
3rd July, we decide to leave our safe but busy anchorage and went around to a beautiful bay on the east coast of Meganissi, that was until the wind picked up and the seas started rolling in, so we headed off back to the fingers for shelter and to secure our record so far of no sleepless nights on anchor, (which is very important to Chantal !)
4th July, we headed over to the mainland and to a beautiful bay called ORMOS VARKA, we we found some peace and quiet for 2 nights and also managed to get our Kayak out, both individually and together, so more exercise for us.
6th July, we then headed over to PALEIROS, still on the mainland, and having tried to get on the pontoon but failed as it was so busy, we anchored off, later being joined by 20 or so boat who had also done tried the same thing!. We had a wonder around the village which hadn’t been so badly effected by the earthquake and so had a lot of oldy woldyness about it.
Paleiros, Mainland Greece
We also went for an Indian Curry, and as we sat down, we realised we have a stalker, our friend Nick, who we met last year in Vonitsa and have subsequently already bumped into again 3 times this season, was with a charming Australian family, Don, Dee, Matt and Taylor, who we had a real blast with as we joined them for dinner.
The following day, we made the decision to fit solar panels, as a consequence of not getting back to our yacht last night until 2.30AM, and then being woken up at 05.30AM by the boat alarm , which informs you that you have nearly run out of power. (not the first time I might add this trip), so we raced back to meet up with our technical people who were in Nidri. As it happens Nick and our Australian friends were also heading there, but had left a bit earlier than us and not having any time constraints on them were persevering under sail in 3 knots of wind, so having caught up with them we decided to take some pictures for them under sail.
Arriving in Nidri, we then set about getting a quote and work done to get the solar panels sorted, but this involves a new stainless steel frame needing to be fitted to then fit the solar panels to it, but the guy who makes the frame is in Levkas Town, so off we went the next day to see him, under motor all the way there, but a fabulous downwind sail in a Force 4 on the way back to Nidri, and needless to say we are now exploring more of Levkas whilst we wait for the frame and solar panel to be completed and fitted next Wednesday in Lefkada Town. Chantal also managed to fulfil another aspiration (having wanted one for over 2 years now) and that was ordering a Paddle board, which should also be delivered to Lefkada Town for next Wednesday as well, so I suspect that there might be some entertaining stories and photos as a consequence, in the future.
Hopefully with all the above achieved, we will be able to start the rest of our trip, along the mainland and down to the Gulf of Corinth!
