Antibes, finally we got there!

Having missed Antibes on our way east early this summer due to bad weather, we watched the forecast closely and on the 20th departed from Nice to tack our way across the bay in a gentle F2, being brave, sailing in between the super yachts to get tucked in to the anchorage next to Antibes, the marina not being an option.

Safely anchored we then jumped in the dinghy and headed for a tiny port close by to leave our dinghy only to be literally shooed away by a young and somewhat up his own arse captainerie. We kinda accepted his decision, well we had no choice really but what maddened us the most was another dinghy followed us in, its occupants being French, trying to do the same thing, and they didn’t follow us out… 😡

The main port was a long way from our anchorage, in our little dinghy, and with a swell rolling into the bay promising an uncomfortable night, we set sail again aiming for the north side of Saint Margherita, the larger of the Lerins Islands, where the swell couldn’t reach us, then the following day we sailed back towards Golfe Juan, to its marina, so we could leave the boat safely and get the train into Antibes.

Golfe Juan is a sleepy modernish tourist resort, so not much to write home about, although we made some new friends, Alan and Karen on the boat opposite us.

Golfe Juan

We hopped on the train to Antibes in the afternoon, we loved this vibrant charming town. Old Antibes is one of those fascinating towns where at every turn, the past enhances the present, full of winding alleyways to get lost in, artists selling their wares, bars, restaurants, life, not to mention Chateau Grimaldi, which houses the Picasso Museum.

We also found the market place, vibrant with fruit and veg stalls during the mornings, but turned over to cafes and restaurants for the evening.

Antibes

All along the ramparts were dotted the bronze sculptures of Nicolas Lavarenne, trained in mechanics, he first chose the profession of wood sculptor to accompany cabinetmakers.

” One day, while working on a small piece of wood, I discovered sculpture almost by chance as an act of creation! Since 1993, I have lived from my work as an artist. It has taken me to the United States, Denmark, Lebanon, England… By nature, I am not a great traveler, but my sculptures take me by the hand and take me with them to the ends of the earth… I did all this simply to meet you… “.

His sculptures suspended high in the air on plinths, wires between trees, poles on the corners of random buildings were just stunning.

We soaked up the atmosphere right through to the evening, enjoying a Thai meal, then walked back through the port, with its lit up ferris wheel, a giant lit figure that looks a bit like one of Darth Vadar’s white solders with the old fort lit up in french colours, to catch the last train home.

The following morning we caught the bus up to Vallauris, its inhabitants once made the choice to build their village high up, sheltered from invaders. It is now renowned for its pottery but sadly wandering around it felt as if it is a village that is dying, most of the premises were shut down, of course they could all have been on holiday, but it didn’t feel like that.

Vallauris

We then returned to Seaclusion to take delivery of our new paddle board, “patch” having funnily enough given up the will to live! We also had a fab night out in town, with Alan and Karen…. until we finally parted company hoping to catch up again at some point during the rest of our trip this summer.

22nd August 2024