Up Inside the Italian Stiletto!

by Chantal & David · Published August 5, 2023 · Updated January 3, 2024

15th July we set sail from Santa Maria de Leuca heading to Gallipoli.

The Approaches to Gallipoli

Gallipoli is one of the very few places in Italy that offer a free dock, Greek style, most use marinas, but as we are now in the throws of the holiday season, we thought we would save our pennies. I have to say I totally understand why most opt for the marinas, the wall being pretty rough, very few fixing points, no access to water or electricity, paid or otherwise with certainly no help from anyone in general. Thankfully we weren’t the only ones there when we arrived, so some friendly yachties took our lines and all was good!

We had been to Gallipoli before and did remember the old fort, but not the beautiful old lanes that run through the old town, so it was definitely worth the stop! I will let the early evening pics do the talking…

Gallipoli by Evening

This image actually shows the extent of the town…

We first stopped for a much needed refreshment and soaked up the atmosphere…

We then found a quirky little pizzeria, for guess what, a pizza, salad and some Italian vino! But I have to tell a little story. For those who have known us for many years you might recall David telling a story about one of his football trips to Italy when one of his mates ordered a pepperoni pizza to get a pepper only pizza, and then back in 2015 me doing the same in Anzio…. I think forgivable once, particularly as I always thought it was a bit of a joke David told people rather than what had actually happened. Anyway, when ordering his pizza here in Gallipoli, David ordered extra pepperoni, I did raise my eyebrows but decided not to say anything! Suffice to say we both had a right old giggle when David’s pizza arrived with extra peppers on it, & you all now how much he loves peppers, not! 🤣🤣🤣

We then wandered back through the old streets to the port and Seaclusion for some shut eye, as we were off again in the morning to Taranto, a further 65 miles up the stiletto!

Before departing, I did however sneak off to take some daytime pics of the old fort and pick up some bread etc, first walking through the fishing port and market which was a hive of activity.

We then set sail…aiming for Taranto, but the winds were no longer with us and after tacking up the coast for as far as we could to get, some 48NM’s, we dropped our pick in a wonderful little bay, busy when we arrived with lots of swimmers and little motorboats, but by the time we had watched the stunning sunset, cooked dinner and opened the vino, we were on our own, just perfect!

Bahia di Lido Sirana

The next morning we were off again the relatively short (17nm’s) hop to Taranto on a fab beam reach, even sailing into the enormous bay of Taranto amidst the numerous tankers all anchored there. We had actually got a space in a little “marina”, well single pontoon as we needed a new battery for our bow thruster and didn’t want to entrust one of them to the dinghy!

Taranto Approaches

We made the effort (and in a sailing boat, a huge effort over a number of days) to get to Taranto because we had read it was a place worth visiting.

To quote:

“The real charm of Taranto, located on the beautiful Ionian Sea, lies in its contradictory nature. On the one hand, it is a city full of fishermen and mussels, on the other, it is a huge naval port, full of warships and submarines. Its tormented history, a consequence of its strategic position in the Mediterranean, has left a legacy that makes the town well worth a visit, with lots to see, including the 11th century Cathedrale di San Cataldo, the 15th century Aragonese Castle, which was also once a prison before eventually passing to the Italian Navy, the beautiful canal with its ponte girevole, a swing bridge that opens to allow the passage of the navy’s fleet, and two well-preserved Doric columns, remains of a Greek temple and the only visible testimony to Taranto’s past as a Greek colony.

The old town centre is a fascinating maze of narrow alleyways, many of which only allow access in single file. Echoing with the voices of fishermen returning from their arduous days at sea, these streets provide a charming and unusual setting for visitors. Fish markets rub shoulders with hidden architectural gems and cafés bar & seafood restaurants serving up delicious local specialities such tubettini con le cozze (pasta with mussels). “

Having moored up safely, ordered the battery for delivery the following morning, we went off to explore, and have to say got thoroughly lost. However the old town is not really as is described, it is rather dilapidated, far from overflowing with bars, restaurants and sadly atmosphere! The pics show the best of it!

We did also wander through some areas we wouldn’t have liked to have been in at night, to cross the swing bridge to see the castle, (best seen from the sea), and the new town, considerably smarter, but characterless.

We then walked back towards the marina, in search of a supermarket, as we had pretty much run the boat dry of food and more importantly water! A mistake not to be made again… the nearest one ended up being a half an hour walk away in 42 degrees of heat. Having been given a taxi no by the marina, we loaded up the trolley, paid and then tried to order the taxi. A second mistake, not to be made again, never pay before the taxi is ordered. The driver didn’t speak a word of English and simply put the phone down on me, and refused to pick up again! No other modes of transport around, we had no choice but to walk back, one consolation was that it was at least downhill, not that it helped David´s arms and back, carrying 12 litres of water and other heavy items I couldn’t manage. After that he could enter for the iron man competition! Never have we been so grateful to get back to Seaclusion!

Too exhausted to cook, we walked over the bridge from our marina to go and experience the infamous ubettini con le cozze (pasta with mussels), and boy were we glad, it was delicious, the best mussels either of us have ever eaten, in a basic restaurant full of locals, no better recommendation!

With not much to do but wait for our battery, we chilled out the next day, catching up on some chores, and getting ready for the next stage of our journey, and had a chuckle at the boat opposite us!.